The surprising history of the doughnut: from ancient treats to modern glaze

Doughnuts may feel like the ultimate modern comfort food, but their story stretches back centuries — across oceans, cultures, and even a few culinary myths. From early fried pastries in Europe to the frosted, sprinkled icons we know today, the doughnut’s history is rich, varied, and a little bit mysterious.

A variety of Donuts in a kitchen

Early fried treats: doughnut ancestors

The exact “birthplace” of the doughnut is hotly debated, but fried dough has been part of human diets for thousands of years. Ancient Romans and Greeks enjoyed honey-coated fritters, while in medieval Europe, cooks experimented with deep-fried dough balls.
Two major contenders often get credit for inspiring the modern doughnut:

  • Dutch “oliekoek” (meaning “oil cake”), a dense, sweetened dough fried in lard and often studded with dried fruit.

  • French beignets, delicate, airy pastries that became famous in New Orleans but have roots in 16th-century France.

When Dutch settlers arrived in America in the 17th century, they brought their oliekoek with them — setting the stage for the doughnut’s North American debut.

Shaping the modern doughnut

By the mid-19th century, American cooks were making fried dough that closely resembled today’s doughnut, though they often had a problem: the centres remained raw while the outsides browned quickly. The solution? A clever little tweak that would change doughnut history forever — the hole.

The doughnut hole: fact, fiction, and folklore

The most famous origin story credits Hanson Gregory, a New England ship captain, with inventing the doughnut hole in 1847. Frustrated by undercooked centres, Gregory supposedly punched a hole in the dough with a ship’s tin pepper box, ensuring even frying.

However, some historians suggest that ring-shaped pastries existed before Gregory, and the “invention” might have been more of a popularisation than a true first. Still, the story stuck — and the hole became part of the doughnut’s identity, even inspiring the rise of doughnut holes as their own snack.

A global pastry’s journey

As doughnuts gained popularity in the United States, they also adapted to local flavours and traditions worldwide:

  • Japan embraced the chewy, glutinous mochi doughnut, blending rice flour texture with classic glaze.

  • South Africa has the koeksister, a plaited, syrup-soaked twist of fried dough.

  • Spain and much of Latin America enjoy churros, long ridged pastries often dusted with sugar and served with chocolate.

  • Poland celebrates pączki, rich, jam-filled doughnuts tied to pre-Lent celebrations.

Each variation tells a story of cultural exchange, where fried dough meets local ingredients and tastes.

From small bakeries to global brands

In the 20th century, doughnut shops exploded in popularity, especially after the First World War, when the Salvation Army’s “doughnut lassies” served fried treats to soldiers overseas. Iconic chains like Dunkin’ Donuts and Krispy Kreme brought mass production and branding to the pastry world, while artisanal bakeries in cities like Vancouver have revived small-batch, inventive flavours.

The doughnut today

Whether you’re biting into a classic glazed ring or a gourmet creation topped with matcha cream, every doughnut carries with it centuries of evolution — from ancient honey fritters to the modern Instagram-ready masterpiece. And while debates over its exact origins may never be settled, one thing is certain: the doughnut’s journey is far from over.

If you’re in Calgary, you may already have your go-to local doughnut shop. But if you’re heading west, be sure to check out the best doughnuts in Vancouver — because some of the most delicious examples of this storied treat are waiting for you there.