Chef Garrett Martin knew he had found his calling as soon as he started working in a restaurant kitchen. The sense of competition drove him, while the in-built camaraderie bolstered him. After his culinary career took him around the world, he found himself back in Calgary with a desire to bring a touch of Paris to his hometown. Earlier this year, after a brief stint with a pop-up, his dream came to fruition when he opened Francine’s with his Co-Partner, Nate Wry. We spoke with Martin to learn more about properly roasted meats, peaches, and where in Calgary he thinks serves the best pizza in Canada.
What first inspired you to become a chef, and how has your journey led you to Calgary?
I started cooking at Earls when I was 16, just for a job. I loved the job. It didn’t feel like work. I loved the camaraderie, the speed, the pirate ship culture. I ended up just enjoying the competitive aspect of it. I wanted to push myself and see what else was out there. I moved from restaurant to restaurant, always trying to take on something more challenging. I ended up working in Napa and Washington and did some time interning in Denmark and Sweden as well. I ended up back in Calgary because I love the city and wanted to be part of the food culture here.
Who were some of your biggest influences, either chefs or family, in shaping your approach to cooking?
As a young cook and like many of my peers from the same generation, I idolized Chef Thomas Keller. As I grew older, I was inspired by restaurants that did a brilliant job of bridging the gap between fine dining techniques and casual dining environments and local palates. I love classics. I love old-school dishes like Lobster Thermidor and Steak Diane. My biggest inspiration these days are chefs who focus on classics like that.
What’s the story behind your restaurant — how did it come to life?
Nate (my business partner and I) wanted a place that felt like the kind of place you’d stumble into in Paris at 11 pm on Wednesday. Not a bistro, not a brasserie, but a place that was busy, a bit loud, lots of cocktails and interesting food that was inspired by French classics but leaned a bit more into the kind of stuff you’d want to eat with what you drink. We ran it as a pop-up for 6 months in 2024, and it went really well, and Calgarians loved it. It took us a long time to find a space that had the old-world qualities that we wanted reflected in the food and beverage program.
How does the food culture of Calgary influence your cooking style or menu choices?
I say this affectionately: Calgary has a bit of a meat-and-potatoes palate, but so do I. I want food that satisfies and doesn’t challenge. I don’t care too much about being creative. I want properly roasted meats and delicious sauces. I like to find acid and balance on the menu with salads and fish. I don’t think Calgarians like creativity for the sake of it, but rather where it makes things better, and we try to focus on that at Francine’s. Calgarians can be pushed out of their culinary safety nets, but they appreciate a delicate touch with it. We try to give the people what they want, but give them little touches of creativity.
What’s one local ingredient you can’t live without in your kitchen?
I love sweet corn in the summer, and I’m not sure if it counts as local because it’s from BC, but a perfect BC peach in August is one of the best things in the world.
If someone was visiting Calgary for the first time, what food experience would you insist they try?
I truly believe that Noble Pie is the best pizza in Canada, and easily some of the best in North America. I’ve had “the best” in all of these other major cities, and nobody comes close. It sounds funny because Calgary is not necessarily known as a pizza town, but we have the best pizzeria that I’ve experienced in this country.
What restaurants, cafés, or hidden gems in Calgary do you personally love to eat at when you’re off-duty?
I love the Chuckwagon Cafe. It’s a beautiful drive down, the service is always great, and it’s an authentic experience. They’re not trying to be anything that they’re not. It’s a perfect little cowboy diner. I love Turca Breakfast House because it’s so interactive and delicious. Thai Siam is so unapologetically Thai, so I love that place as well.
How do you think the dining scene in Calgary is different from other Canadian cities?
I think Calgary doesn’t try to flex too much. There’s a quiet confidence in a lot of our best restaurants where I feel like they’re not “showy” and focused on great food, drink and service. Concepts aren’t too contrived. There’s a point of view.
Where do you like to shop for ingredients locally — farmers’ markets, specialty shops, or a particular supplier?
I love Crossroads Market in the summer. You can smell the strawberries that have been sitting in the sun. I love visiting Isaac at Say Cheese in the market as well. He has such a huge selection, and he’s so knowledgeable. Sometimes, he won’t even let you get a word in before he’s bringing you a sample of some weird, delicious cheese that he’s excited about.
Beyond food, what makes Calgary special to you as a place to live and work?
It’s so sunny here, even when it’s cold out. There are so many great cycling areas in and outside of the city if you love road biking as I do. There are tons of winding roads and foothills with fresh air and blue skies. There are so many brilliant, slightly more ambitious restaurants, like Bar Gigi and Dopo, but I also feel like we have some incredible speciality restaurants that do little things so well. Noble Pie for pizza, Class Clown for burgers, Thai Siam for Thai. I’m really into Vietnamese right now, and Lai Rai has been a favourite.
What’s next for you and your restaurant here?
We want to settle into the market. I’m not looking to be crowned Calgary’s best chef or most creative, and besides the obvious business benefits, I don’t care about Francine’s winning similar awards. I want to be a place that people can come for consistent, delicious food that’s well-priced, have a couple delicious cocktails and escape the city for a bit. Give me a full restaurant full of people who just want a nice night, and I’m a happy boy.
