Any local Calgarian will tell you that 17th Avenue is one of the best places to be on a crisp, fall evening on the cusp of a weekend. The air is cool, and the sun disappears in the blink of an eye, but as the evening progresses this street springs to life as the city’s most sought-after restaurants open their doors. One of these businesses is Model Milk, a contemporary joint offering Canadian fare with effortless ingenuity.
Located on the east side of 17th Ave and neighbouring its sister restaurant, Pigeonhole, Model Milk can best be located by the matte-white bust of a bull jutting out from just above the doors.
Once you are inside, you may be fooled by the seemingly intimate and modest layout of the front-facing dining room. However, after taking one step past the hostess stand, you realize that a second, third, and even fourth levels reveal themselves as distinct terraces connected by stairways. Each level obtains an open concept and a playful, rustic theme with wooden accents.
The third of these levels is solely occupied by the open kitchen, a long white bar behind which everything is visible to patrons, the most fascinating of which are Model Milk’s chefs who work with meticulous efficiency on preparing the dishes of the night. Another benefit to the open kitchen is access to the symphony of enticing aromas wafting from behind the bar, surely to entice the palate before even laying eyes on the menu.
Regarding the menu, a key principle of Model Milk is that they ascertain only the freshest and highest-quality ingredients offered by the land, giving priority to whatever is in season and ethically available. Model Milk’s website describes the methods in which they pertain to only the best sourcing practices, which chiefly include building long-term relationships with local farmers and butchering the meat for the night on site.
For the sake of quality over quantity, the menu at Model Milk is brief. It is divided into two sections, “small plates” which follow the style of traditional Spanish tapas, and “large plates” for the particularly ravenous. The small plates can be ordered in multiples, with 2-3 dishes recommended per person, so moving your way through a decent portion of the menu should not be a challenge – especially considering that everything here is delicious.
From the small plates, a surprising highlight are the blistered Shishito Peppers– a blend of sweetness and umami with brief moments of heat. In what becomes a fun type of pepper-roulette, about 1 in 10 Shishitos are spicy to the effect of a jalapeno. A generous bed of Tofu and Miso Cream provides a perfect counter to the heat.
The Scallop Crudo is another must-try off the small plates. The scallops, served raw, have the consistency of butter and a delicate flavour. They are cleverly rounded off with Lime Leaf, adding subtle herbal notes, and a coconut vinaigrette which affords the slightest boost of sweetness and acidity.
From the large plates, the Icelandic Cod is a stand-out contender for the method in which the fish is served – cooked to a glistening flakiness and floating upon a generously-spiced Green Curry Broth. Finally, the Hot Honey Fried Chicken is an excellent choice for a hearty, rustic meal featuring all of the comfort classics including a flaky Buttermilk Biscuit.
Model Milk’s first approach was to toss out the preconceived conventions of a typical restaurant, instead opting to cultivate an environment which welcomes good connections and really good food. After spending an evening here, among the friendly atmosphere and inventive menu, it becomes clear that they’ve succeeded in further elevating this popular farm-to-table concept.
